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| Greek Isles
Grille is an oasis for well-prepared Greek cuisine. EXTRA, EXTRA: It's always nice to get something extra. Warm, crusty bread and tart olives arrive at the table first. Even if you order a salad or sandwich, soup is included. Served steaming hot, the avgolemono soup's smooth, creamy texture matched its delicate lemon-chicken flavor. White rice awaited stirring at the bottom of the cup. SALAD PLATES: Entrees come with either soup or salad. The "horiatiki" Greek salad is a healthy mix of cucumber and tomato with thinly sliced red onion, olives, feta cheese and olive oil. The Kostas Greek salad topped a mix of lettuces with cucumbers, red onion and feta cheese. WHAT A PAIR: A combination plate of "pastitsio" and "dolmas" ($6.50 at lunch) is a good way to try both Greek specialities. The stuffed grape leaves were tantalizing packages of flavors from the bitter leaves to the spiced beef and lamb, aromatic with nutmeg and with a subtle afterburn. "Pastitsio," also known as Greek lasagna, was satisfying layers of macaroni and spiced beef and lamb topped with a white sauce. Sides included rice and vegetables. NO SKIMPING: In shrimp Mykonos ($8.50 lunch, $13.95 dinner), almost a dozen large shrimp crowded the casserole dish. They were cooked with tomato, garlic, olive oil and feta cheese and served over rice. The side of green beans, peas and carrots was superfluous. CHICKEN CHOICES: Grilled chicken pita ($5.95 lunch, $7.50 dinner) looked delicious with thick soft bread wrapped around a load of white-meat strips, tomatoes and onions with cool "tsatsiki" (garlic, yogurt and cucumber) sauce on the side – but the meat was charred. We had better luck with chicken avgolemono ($6.50 lunch, $10.50 dinner), two boneless breasts flavored with olive oil, oregano and lemon. CALM DOWN: With a blue-and-white color scheme, soft music and framed posters of Greece, it's hard not to relax. Tables are topped with blue nautical-themed tablecloths and linen napkins. READY TO SERVE: Our waiter answered many questions about menu items and ingredients, and we never had to ask for more bread or drink refills. But on a second visit with a different server, we felt a little slighted when diners around us were being told the specials of the day and being offered fresh ground pepper, and we weren't. FINISHING TOUCH: A large, diamond-shaped piece of baklava ($2) with layers of flaky phyllo, chopped nuts and honey, was a sweet end to the meal. Published in The Dallas Morning News - January 20, 2000 Restaurant Review By Brian Bearden |
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