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| When theorists speak of pheromones, the mysterious hormonal signals by which members of a species irresistibly attract each other, restaurants are not the subject of the discussion. Yet some similar silent magnetism must affect the dining trade - how else to explain how a relatively unsung new eatery, devoted to a relatively underappreciated cuisine, could explode overnight into SRO popularity? |
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| Teppo is the
eatery, Japanese is the cuisine, and its instant attraction is easier
to experience than to explain. Occupying an arrow-narrow space between
two other ethnic restaurants on Lower Greenville, the immaculate little
establishment and - and daily does - seat some for dozen celebrants
at its six inside tables and 20-chair sushi bar. Up to 15 more can
be accommodated out front on a tiny sidewalk patio. What they're fed
here sounds, at first blush, equally limited: Teppo's bill of fare
is confined to sushi, sashimi and yakitori, the last involving skewer-strung
nibbles of marinated meats and vegetables grilled over oak-scented
charcoal. The one-page menu reads like a bare bones shopping list
of raw seafood and simple canape-sized cooked treats. Ah, well, but that's without allowing for the expanded pleasure inherent in orchestrating the selections. And sequences. Prompted by cultural conditioning (first the shrimp cocktail, then the steak, dontcha know), we'd have started with cool sushi tidbits and given the grilled treats entree eminence if our server hadn't tactfully mentioned that Japanese custom call for savoring yakitori choices as hors d'oeuvres before proceeding to the subtler flavor and texture contrasts of fresh, raw seafood. |
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| Not that
it matters; we could have dined creatively off either category. Of
the half-dozen grilled delicacies we sampled, none was disappointing.
Bite-sized chicken meatballs were succulent dipped in the beaten quail
egg, then red pepper or spicy mustard that came with them. Beef sirloin
nuggets studded with garlic and dark cubes of crisp-edged duck virtually
dripped flavor, as did chicken breast strung with bits of green onion.
Firm whole quail eggs with creamy centers were interesting exotic,
and baby okra pods grilled with cubed bacon carried delicious healthy-veg
crunch. The sushi-sashimi side of the menu offers more variety in selection as well as price. The standard favorites we shared were peerlessly fresh, the sushi artfully presented in vinegared rice, the sashimi prettily sliced and arranged on tiny trays. The salmon skin roll was outstanding - the crunchy strip was rolled around cucumber and radish sprouts inside seaweed; and the house specialty Teppo roll, prepared to order by the sushi chef, wrapped tuna and chewy-firm conch ribbons together in a magical marriage of taste and texture. Two closing cautions: Teppo sills with diners early, especially on weekends; and while single items on the menu are mostly pittance-priced, an evening of enthusiastic ordering can add up astonishingly. That's in pleasure as well as cost, of course. |
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